Tom parker bowles

Tom is mesmerised by this Michelin-rated Indian - and there's one dish he can't stop raving about.

Rosé is the speciality wine of the region and while I still adore its unique tension, caught between savoury depth and thirst-quenching appeal, prices are a little too hot for me. Heavy on the peas and fenugreek, this divine mince is scooped in great heaps on to blistered, buttery naan. When it arrived in Goa, packed in great wooden barrels, the wine was replaced with todi vinegar and a fistful of local spices. No, this is as classic as it gets, a descendant of the Portuguese dish carne de vinha d'alhos: pork preserved with red wine and garlic. Kerara kekda, or soft-shell crab, are crisp and grease-free, with a tart tomato chutney and splendid prawn pickle. Even chicken tikka, so often an arid afterthought, is as luscious as it is sweet.